Paris is confident that it's the world's most beautiful, fashionable and artistic capital. Visit just once and it's hard to disagree.

Walking through the heart of Paris you often feel like you've wandered onto an art film set; much of the city has been scrubbed clean in recent years and it's never looked more fabulous. Its inhabitants are the definition of style, its architecture includes some of the most spectacular buildings and monuments in Europe and the ambience is by turns exciting, alluring and effortlessly romantic.

France's capital city, Paris is quite distinctively divided into two parts by the Seine River, which meanders through the city, bisecting the centre. Thus everything in Paris is defined as Rive Droite (Right Bank) on the north side, or Rive Gauche (Left Bank) on the south side. Both sides compete with each other in great museums, churches, monuments, shops, hotels and restaurants, while in the middle of the river, atop the L'Île de la Cité, rises the towering bulk of Notre Dame cathedral, arbitrator between the two rivals.

But in truth this rivalry is only superficial. Paris is a whole unto itself, and Parisians are fiercely passionate about their home like nowhere else on earth. The city and its inhabitants have an independence born of fiercely fought revolution - not only political but also ideological. For centuries the city has attracted artists and philosophers, and within a day you can tread in the footsteps of such historical luminaries as Sartre, Voltaire, Hugo, Rousseau and Descartes - little wonder Paris is called the City of Lights.

The creative spontaneity that inspired these revolutionary minds is still running through the city and can be felt on the streets even today. Perhaps this is why Paris has its reputation for romance: nowhere else has such passion or feels quite so alive.

Paris is a round-the-clock city and whatever the time of year or day you'll never be short of things to do. The city's tourist hotspots are famous the world over but in this vast metropolis there's a lot more to see than just these.

It's useful to know that central Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements or administrative quarters which spiral out from the centre. Most of the major tourist sites are in the lower number arrondissements, notably the first (1er) to the eighth (8e). Generally a place will state in which arrondissement you'll find it.

If you want to see a number of monuments and museums on a short trip, think about buying a Paris Museum Pass, a card which allows you free entry to some 60 sites, and allows you to skip queues. The card can be bought at the museums that subscribe to the scheme, in many Métro and RER stations, FNAC ticket counters, or at tourist offices. Attractions included in the scheme are marked CMM below. For more details, Tel: +33 (0)8-9268-3000 +33 (0)8-9268-3000 . The card costs: 2 days: EUR30 4 days: EUR45 6 days: EUR60

Excellent bus tours of the city with full multi-lingual commentary are provided by City Sightseeing using open-top vehicles. The starting point for the tours is the Eiffel Tower, with departures every 15 minutes in the summer. For more information and the opportunity to book this and other sightseeing tours online, visit the link below:

Hotels

The Eiffel Tower

One of the world's most famous monuments, La Tour Eiffel is an unmistakeable feature of the Paris skyline. Designed by Gustav Eiffel for the 1889 World Fair, when completed the tower was the tallest building in the world at 300 metres. It is no exaggeration to say that the Eiffel Tower is the symbol not only of Paris but of the entire country. Although no longer the tallest structure in the world it still offers one of the best vantage points from which to get your bearings in the City of Lights. Take the lift all the way up to level three for some spectacular views across Paris.

Famously the construction was only intended to last the duration of the fair. However, over a century after its erection the tower is still as sturdy as ever. To avoid the queues come early in the morning - or visit at night when the tower is lit up with over 10,000 lights.

Champ de Mars, 7e. Open: daily 09h30-23h00. Admission: EUR12 to level three; EUR7.80 to level two; EUR4.80 to level one. Tel: +33 (0)1-4411-2323 +33 (0)1-4411-2323 . Métro: Bir-Hakeim or RER Champ-de-Mars.

Arc de Triomphe

Located on the Rive Droite, almost directly north from the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe was intended to be a monument to Napoleon's military prowess, being commissioned by the Little Corporal in 1806. It has since been at the centre of much of Paris's history with both the German occupying army and the liberating Allied forces marching through it during World War Two.

The arc is also the focal point of state funeral processions with Napoleon himself and Victor Hugo being just two historical figures whose funeral corteges have travelled through the monument. From the top you can enjoy excellent views of Paris, particularly down the Grand Axe from the modern business centre of La Défense to the Champs-Elysées and the Louvre.

Place Charles de Gaulle, 8e. Open: 10h00-22h30 (Oct-Mar); 10h00-23h00 (Apr-Sep). Admission: EUR9, adults; free for children. Free to all on the first Sunday of each month Feb-May. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-5537-7377 +33 (0)1-5537-7377 . Métro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile.

Cruise the Seine

A great way to introduce yourself to Paris is to take a cruise along the Seine in one of the pleasure boats commonly known as bateaux-mouches or vedettes. The most popular points of departure for boats include the western tip of the Île de la Cité and the Pont de l'Alma close to the Eiffel Tower. Trips normally last an hour and run throughout the day except during flood periods. Expect to pay around EUR9. Dinner is available on some trips. Try any of the following cruise companies for various itineraries:

Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf, Square du Vert-Galant, 1er. Tel: +33 (0)1-4633-9838 +33 (0)1-4633-9838 . Métro: Pont-Neuf. Bateaux Parisiens Tour Eiffel, Port de la Bourdonnais, 7e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4411-3344 +33 (0)1-4411-3344 . Métro: Trocadéro. Bateaux Vedettes de Paris, Port de Suffren, 7e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4418-1950 +33 (0)1-4418-1950 . Métro: Bir-Hakeim.

Notre Dame and L'Île de la Cité

On L'Île de la Cité in the middle of the Seine, the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Notre Dame has now been greatly restored to its former glory. You can generally only see a limited amount of the interior, but it is still well worth a visit to see the stunning rose windows in the nave. If you're Catholic, attending mass here is particularly uplifting. For a fee, you can climb to the top of Notre Dame's towers and gaze down at the city along with the gargoyles that perch atop its walls.

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris. Place du Parvis Notre Dame, 4e. Open: daily 07h40-18h40. Admission: free to the nave. Free guided tours available in various languages. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4234-5610 +33 (0)1-4234-5610 . Métro: Cité/St-Michel.

The Louvre

A colossal French royal château turned into the greatest art museum in the world, the Louvre is the most famous building on the Rive Droite of the Seine. The main entrance is via the mesmerising glass pyramid designed by IM Pei and opened in 1989. First-timers tend to go straight for Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa in the extensive Italian collections, and visitors sometimes forget that the gallery boasts a superlative array of French masterpieces, as well as phenomenal French and foreign sculpture galleries. As if that wasn't enough, the vast place also contains one of the largest collections of ancient treasures in the world, including staggering Egyptian artefacts brought to France after the Napoleonic campaigns.

Musée du Louvre. Palais du Louvre, 1er. Open: Wed-Mon 09h00-18h00 (until 21h45 Mon & Wed). Admission: EUR9, adults; free for children. Free to all visitors on the first Sunday of each month. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4020-5317 +33 (0)1-4020-5317 . Métro: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.

The Sacré Coeur

With its many domes visible from afar across Paris, the white Basilique du Sacré Coeur, atop Montmartre, rises more like a fabulous oriental palace than a church. The place is magnetically kitsch inside and out, although the Benedictine nuns and their hymns create a suitably religious atmosphere each day of the week for mass. From in front of the basilica the views over Paris are exhilarating.

Beside the basilica is the lovely Gothic church of St Pierre, all that remains of the royal abbey of Montmartre which was destroyed during the Revolution.

35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 18e. Open: daily 06h00-22h30. Admission: free to the cathedral andthe crypt. Tel: +33 (0)1-5341-8909 +33 (0)1-5341-8909 . Métro: Abbesses/Anvers.

Musée d'Orsay

The main challenger to the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay lies on the Rive Gauche of the Seine opposite the royal palace. This splendidly pompous building went up at the very end of the 19th century, having been designed by Victor Laloux as a railway station for the 1900 Paris World Fair. Saved from destruction in the 1970s, it was transformed into an art museum, taking up the story of French art where the Louvre leaves off, up to the outbreak of the First World War in 1914. The magical works of Impressionists such as Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Cézanne and Pissarro are the highlights.

Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 1. Open: Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 09h30-18h00, Thu 10h00-21h45, Sun 09h00-18h00. Admission: EUR9.50, adults; free for children. Free to all visitors on the first Sunday of each month. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4049-4814 +33 (0)1-4049-4814 . Métro: Solférino or RER Musée d'Orsay.

The Pompidou Centre

Immodestly flaunting its plumbing on the outside and daubed in vulgarly bright colours, the bold and brash Centre Pompidou caused a sensation when it first opened. The main attraction for tourists is the Musée National d'Art Moderne.

Here you can saunter past splendid works by the leading modern painters who shook the art world between the 1900s and the 1960s. The emphasis is on French artists, or those who lived in France. Picasso, Braque, Matisse and the likes count among the stars.

If you like the works of art on show here the city of Paris also has its own separate top-class modern art collection in the Palais de Tokyo.

Centre Georges Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 4e. Open: Wed-Mon 11h00-21h00. Admission: EUR12 (May 7 Aug 11); EUR12, adults (from Aug 11); free for children. Free to all visitors on the first Sunday of each month. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4478-1233 +33 (0)1-4478-1233 . Métro: Hôtel de Ville/Rambuteau or RER Châtelet les Halle

The Cluny

Medieval art is celebrated at the Musée National du Moyen Age, better known simply as the Cluny. The settings in this ornate if over-restored Gothic house, built on the site of Roman baths, may be slightly old-fashioned. However, you can't help but admire the tapestries of the Lady and the Unicorn, the original statues of the Kings of Judah from Notre Dame's façade and some of the finest church treasures in Europe.

6 Place Paul Painlevé, 5e. Open: Wed-Mon 09h15-17h45 (opening times may vary). Admission: EUR7.50, adults; free for children. Free to all on the first Sunday of each month. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-5373-7816 +33 (0)1-5373-7816 . Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne or RER St-Michel.

Picasso Museum

Picasso spent many years in France, including the war years, and the Musée Picasso (in the Marais quarter on the Rive Droite) is crammed with works by the Spanish exile. The amazingly diverse works demonstrate how the genius developed his unique style through different periods.

Musée National Picasso. Hôtel Salé, 5 Rue de Thorigny, 3e. Open: Wed-Mon 09h30-18h00 (Apr-Sept); 09h30-17h30 (Oct-Mar). Admission: EUR8.50, adults; free for children. Free to all on the first Sunday of each month. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4271-2521 +33 (0)1-4271-2521 . Métro: St-Paul.

Conciergerie

Paris's revolutionary history is covered in the Conciergerie, the remnants of a medieval royal palace on l'Île de la Cité. The building doubled as an infamous prison during the bloody uprising and was the place of Marie Antoinette's incarceration - from where she was taken to the guillotine on October 16, 1793.

1 Blvd du Palais, 1er. Open: daily 09h30-18h00 (Mar-Oct); 09h00-17h00 (Nov-Feb). Admission: EUR6.50, adults; free for children. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-5340-6097 +33 (0)1-5340-6097 . Métro: Cité/Châtelet.

Montmartre

The "Hill of the Martyrs", named after early Christians persecuted by the Romans, lies north of the city centre and is crowned by the magnificent Sacré Coeur. Montmartre became the haunt of countless artists in the 19th century and virtually everything in the area is devoted to their memory. The very pretty Place du Tertre is the heart of touristy Montmartre but beyond the square you can find seclusion from the crowds.

The nearby Espace Dali (Rue Poulbot, 18e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4264-4010 +33 (0)1-4264-4010 ) is filled with works by the surrealist Spanish artist, and not far off, in Rue Cortot, the Musée de Montmartre (12 Rue Cortot, 18e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4606-6111 +33 (0)1-4606-6111 ) proves an interesting local history museum. The village-like ambience of the area is heightened by a couple of old windmills, namely the Moulin de la Galette and the Moulin du Radet, and a patch of vineyard.

Paris Cemeteries

Amidst all its vibrant life Paris is home to quite possibly the most famous cemetery in the world. Père-Lachaise (Boulevard de Ménilmontant, 20e) has become a major attraction for admirers not just of Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, but also for those of major French cultural figures such as Molière, La Fontaine, Balzac and Victor Hugo.

Other cemeteries worth visiting in the city include the Cimetière du Montparnasse (3 Blvd Edgar Quinet, 14e) which can claim Baudelaire, Sartre and de Beauvoir among its inhabitants. Meanwhile the Cimetière de Montmartre (18e) is home to Stendhal, Berlioz, Dumas, Degas and Nijinsky (as in the dancer Vaslav, and not the racehorse).

Military Museum

The military history of the whole of France, not just Paris, takes up large parts of the massive Les Invalides complex.

As the name implies, these buildings were originally constructed as a hospital for the huge number of soldiers wounded in King Louis XIV's wars. The complex now houses the Musée de l'Armée, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs and the Musée de l'Ordre de la Libération.

France's proud military heritage is evident throughout, in an overwhelming wealth of paintings, engravings, uniforms and weapons. Of course Napoleon is well represented; displays include reconstructions of several of the Little Corporal's rooms, his death mask and one of his favourite horses, stuffed. Below the dome of Les Invalides's church lies Napoleon's elephantine tomb.

Hôtel National des Invalides. 129 Rue de Grenelle, 7e. Open: 10h00-18h00 (19h00 for Napoleon's tomb). Admission: EUR8, adults; free for children. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1(33)8-1011-3399. Métro: Invalides/Pont de l'Alma.

The Panthéon

Soufflot originally built the enormous domed Panthéon on the Rive Gauche as a church for Louis XV. At the Revolution it was turned into a monumental temple to the memory of the great citizens of the French nation: Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola and the Curies (Pierre and Marie), have all been given places among other famous French men and women through the ages.

Place du Panthéon, 5e. Open: daily 10h00-18h30 (summer), 10h00-18h00 (winter). Admission: EUR7.50, adults; free for children. CMM. Tel: +33 (0)1-4432-1804 +33 (0)1-4432-1804 . Métro: Cardinal Lemoine or RER Luxembourg.

Views of Paris

The 196 metre-high summit of the Tour Montparnasse provides some of Paris's most impressive views. The building itself is nothing to look at (unless you have a soft spot for brutalist tower blocks) but take the super-fast lift to the 56th floor and you will be rewarded with a superb 360-degree vista of the city, taking in the Eiffel Tower, Sacré Coeur and all the other major landmarks. Rue de l'Arrivée, 15e. Open: daily 09h30-23h00. Admission: EUR10, adults; EUR7, children. Tel: +33 (0)1-4538-5256 +33 (0)1-4538-5256 . Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue.

More interesting architecturally, and almost as good in the view stakes, in the heart of the city's business district the ultra-modern Grande Arche de la Défense stands as a modern-day Arc de Triomphe. A panoramic glass lifts transport visitors 110 metres to the viewing floor at the top - for a perfect view along the full length of the Champs Elysée. Parvis de le Défense. Open: 10h00-20h00. Admission: EUR10, adults; EUR8.50, children. Tel: +33 (0)1-4907-2727 +33 (0)1-4907-2727 . Métro: Grande Arche de la Défense.

The cultural scene is so vibrant in all areas of Paris that the major problem is deciding between so many choices. Of course the other issue for foreign visitors is that most plays and films will be in French, which might help you make up your mind, but even so the selection is extensive by anyone's standards.

Parisians generally buy Pariscope (EUR0.40) or L'Officiel des Spectacles (EUR0.35) to find out what's going on by way of entertainment each week. They're both divided up into sections on theatre, music, cinema, the arts, children's events and gastronomy. There is also has a nightlife section.

One of the best ways of booking tickets for all Parisian entertainment is via the FNAC, which has a chain of shops across Paris dedicated to entertainment. You can also contact France Billet (Tel: +33 (0)8-9269-2192 +33 (0)8-9269-2192 ) and Mosa?co Diffusion (Tel: +33 (0)1-4020-4703 +33 (0)1-4020-4703 ).

For details of what's on during your stay, visit Paris Tourist Office:

Paris Tourist Office 25 Rue des Pyramides 75001 Paris Tel: +33 (0)8-9268-3000 +33 (0)8-9268-3000

Music

Classical

Major classical concerts and important classical recitals often take place in the following venues:

Thé?tre du Ch?telet Place du Ch?telet, 1er Tel: +33 (0)1-4028- 2800 +33 (0)1-4028- 2800

Thé?tre des Champs-Elysées 15 Ave Montaigne, 16e Tel: +33 (0)1-4952-5050 +33 (0)1-4952-5050

Salle Pleyel 252 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e Tel: +33 (0)1-4561-5300 +33 (0)1-4561-5300

Thé?tre de la Ville 2 Place du Ch?telet Tel: +33 (0)1-4274-2277 +33 (0)1-4274-2277

A large number of churches and museums around Paris play host to classical concerts, providing a wonderful atmosphere in which to listen to live performances. Check weekly listings for details. One of the best is Eglise de la Madeleine (8e) Alternatively try Eglise St Germain des Prés (16e).

Experiments in high-tech, contemporary classical music, as championed by Pierre Boulez, take place in:

Cité de la Musique 221 Ave Jean Jaur?s, 19e Tel: +33 (0)1-4484-4500 +33 (0)1-4484-4500

Jazz

Legendary old jazz haunts throughout the city include the following:

Le Bilboquet 13 Rue St-Beno?t, 6e Tel: +33 (0)1-4548-8184 +33 (0)1-4548-8184

Caveau de la Huchette 5 Rue de la Huchette, 5e Tel: +33 (0)1-4326-6505 +33 (0)1-4326-6505

Other famous venues which regularly pull in international stars are:

New Morning 7 Rue des Petites Ecuries, 10e Tel: +33 (0)1-4523-5141 +33 (0)1-4523-5141 .

Au Duc des Lombards 42 Rue des Lombards, 1er Tel: +33 (0)1-4233-2288 +33 (0)1-4233-2288

Slow Club 130 Rue de Rivoli, 1er Tel: +33 (0)1-4221-9088 +33 (0)1-4221-9088

Le Petit Journal Montparnasse 13 Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte 14e Tel: +33 (0)1-4321-5670 +33 (0)1-4321-5670

Traditional

Several venues around the city offer performances of traditional French chanson music. Check these locations for performances when you visit:

Canotier du Pied de la Butte 62 Blvd de Rochechouart, 18e Tel: +33 (0)1-4606-0286 +33 (0)1-4606-0286 .

Located in Métro Barb?s-Rochechouart.

Au Lapin Agile 22 Rue des Saules, 18e Tel: +33 (0)1-4606-8587 +33 (0)1-4606-8587 .

Located in Métro Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

Modern/Pop

Palais Omnisport Bercy 8 Blvd de Bercy, 12e Tel: +33 (0)1-4002-6060 +33 (0)1-4002-6060

Zénith 211 Ave Jean Jaur?s, 19e Tel: +33 (0)1-4452-5460 +33 (0)1-4452-5460

? Both stage major pop concerts.

Olympia Bruno Coquatrix 28 Blvd des Capucines, 9e Tel: +33 (0)1-5527-1000 +33 (0)1-5527-1000

It is the best venue for all manner of modern music, where pop artists share the place with French music hall favourites.

La Cigale 120 Blvd de Rochechouart 18e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4925-8175 +33 (0)1-4925-8175

It is another good rock venue in a transformed theatre.

Theatre

Paris loves its theatre and permanently offers a range of staged entertainments ranging from the classics to burlesque and from can-can to ballet.

Comédie Fran?aise - Salle Richelieu 1 Place Colette, 1er Tel: +33 (0)8-2510-1680 +33 (0)8-2510-1680

Founded by Richelieu, that most art-loving of cardinals, where you can experience the French classics such as Racine, Corneille, Moli?re or Beaumarchais. Métro: Palais-Royal.

Thé?tre de l'Europe 8 Blvd Berthier, 6e Tel: +33 (0)1-4485-4040 +33 (0)1-4485-4040

It is one of the main state theatres in Paris that puts on not only French classics but also foreign productions in their original languages. Métro: Odéon.

Thé?tre du Soleil Route du Champ de Manoeuvre, 12e Tel: +33 (0)1-4374-2408 +33 (0)1-4374-2408

The challenging Cartoucherie offers national and international shows. Métro: Ch?teau de Vincennes.

Palais-Royal 38 Rue Montpensier, 1er Tel: +33 (0)1-4297-4000 +33 (0)1-4297-4000

Beautiful 18th Century theatre with a colourful history, mainly hosting comedy productions. Métro: Palais-Royal/Bourse

L'Atelier Place Charles Dullin, 18e Tel: +33 (0)1-4606-4924 +33 (0)1-4606-4924

A lovely theatre with attractive plays. Métro: Anvers.

Opéra du Palais Garnier Place de l'Opéra, 9e Tel: +33 (0)1-7229-3535 +33 (0)1-7229-3535

This outrageously extravagant, mid-19th-century theatre is the staggering home of the Ballet de l'Opéra de Paris and the main theatre in which major dance companies from around the world perform. Métro: Opéra

Studio Regard du Cygne 210 Rue Belleville, 20e Tel: +33 (0)1-4358-5593 +33 (0)1-4358-5593

This venue offers cutting-edge ballets in less ornate surroundings than Opéra du Palais Garnier.

Parisian cabarets are another speciality from the city of love.

Le Paradis Latin 28 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5e Tel: +33 (0)1-4325-2828 +33 (0)1-4325-2828

Built by Gustave Eiffel, this venue represents traditional French cabaret at its best. It is a national landmark and home to the hit New Show 'Paradis ? la Folie'. 'It's a fabulous cocktail of musical comedy, lavish fanfare and modern ballets'. The Show is now followed by an evening of dancing until midnight.

The cabaret is currently offering readers a free Apéritif for all Dinner & Show reservations. Click the tag to the left to get your voucher.

Other kitsch, sexy shows include:

Le Moulin Rouge 82 Blvd de Clichy, 18e Tel: +33 (0)1-5309-8282 +33 (0)1-5309-8282

Crazy Horse 12 Ave George V, 8e Tel: +33 (0)1-4723-3232 +33 (0)1-4723-3232

Lido 116 bis Ave des Champs-Elysées 8e. Tel: +33 (0)1-4076-5610 +33 (0)1-4076-5610

You should really reserve tickets well in advance for any of Paris's theatrical productions. But, if you're willing to take a chance on the day, you can get half-price tickets by queuing at the Kiosque Thé?tre, by 15 Place de la Madeleine, 8e, or on the Parvis de la Gare Montparnasse.

Opera

Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille Tel: +33 (0)1-7229-3535 +33 (0)1-7229-3535

Considered the main opera venue in the city and is another of President Mitterrand's controversial Grands Projets, opened in 1990.

Opéra Comique Place Bo?eldieu, 2e

Tel: +33 (0)1-4244-4540 +33 (0)1-4244-4540 It is a rather older venue and more what people would expect from a Parisian opera house.

There are very few better shopping destinations in the world than Paris. It is a city where people come specifically to browse its shopping streets, which are filled with the finest merchandise available anywhere.

Be aware if planning a shopping trip to Paris that shops may close early or not open at all during France's public holidays.

Where to Shop

Best Areas

On the Right Bank (Rive Droite), the poshest areas for shops (as for hotels) are the 1er and 8e arrondissements, above the Louvre and the gardens of the Tuileries and Champs-Elysées. The beautiful Galerie Vivienne is just one of several delightful old-style shopping arcades which are a joy to explore. A couple of other fashionable arcades lie just south of the Place de la Madeleine. Many of the finest food stores are found in the 8e arrondissement. Foodies tend to head for Fauchon on Place de la Madeleine but nearby rival Hédiard is just as good; epicures should thoroughly explore both delicatessens. You'll also find many excellent specialist chocolate stores in the area.

The shops are trendier and quirkier in the Marais (4e) with clusters of specialist clothes and designer boutiques, together with many cutting-edge art galleries, notably around Place des Vosges. The Forum des Halles (1er), sandwiched between the Marais and the Palais-Royal quarters, offers more down-to-earth shopping pleasures; literally, as the stores are hidden below ground level in this lively mall.

On the Left Bank (Rive Gauche), the biggest density of luxury shops is to be found in the 6e and 7e arrondissements. The department store, Au Bon Marché, stretches either side of Rue du Bac, which marks the western frontier of major shopping territory on this side of the Seine. You should make time to check out the fabulous food hall, La Grande Epicerie, as well as the major fashion departments in the store.

For the really smart, individual boutiques, head for the streets around the church of St-Germain-des-Prés. Nowadays fashion beats religion hands down in this quarter and it's the trendy rather than the pious that walk the streets around the church. A few minutes' walk from St-Germain-des-Prés station, Rue de Rennes is a shoe lover's paradise, with a great choice of stylish shoe shops, some more affordable than others. Unsurprisingly, you'll find a plethora of art galleries showing works from very diverse trends in the streets around the Ecole des Beaux-Arts.

Reaching the Seine's Southern Quays, Quai Voltaire boasts a very upmarket and expensive array of fine art and antiques dealers. You'll also always find an array of the bouquinistes above the quays here with their green boxes of secondhand books, magazines and cards. A walk along the Southern Quays will take you to the Latin Quarter, traditionally linked with Paris intellectual life down the centuries, and a place where you'll find large numbers of bookshops as well as cheaper clothes stores catering to students.

Department Stores

Galeries Lafayette is one of France's most famous names and an enduring symbol of French style and sophistication. A visit to the venerable Parisian flagship store is a must for any discerning shopper on a trip to the city.

Rival to Lafayette, fashionable Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann in the 9e arrondissement (just above the Opéra-Palais Garnier) occupies a particularly elegant building. The store first opened its doors in the 1870s; the 6th floor brasserie seems to hardly have changed since then. The fashionable garments for sale are definitely up to date however. Bon Marché (7e) is a slightly cheaper department store, good if you're looking for a bargain.

Markets

If you enjoy flea markets, head out to some of the so-called Portes or gateways to central Paris. The best-known of these is Les Puces de St-Ouen, held Saturday, Sunday and Monday at Porte de Clignancourt. Another favourite, Les Puces de Montreuil, is held on the same days at Porte de Montreuil.

As to food markets, there are particularly wonderful ones on the Rive Gauche. The Buci market in Saint Germain is excellent even on Sunday, and Mouffetard at the northern end of Rue Mouffetard is well worth checking out. There's a Marché Biologique or farmers' organic market on Boulevard Raspail (6e) on Sunday mornings.

Also worth a browse is the daily flower market near Notre Dame Cathedral. Place Louis Lepine, Ile de la Cité (4e). Open: daily 08h00-19h00.

What to Buy

Paris is fabled as a world fashion centre. On Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré you might prefer to go window-shopping at the likes of Hermès, St-Laurent Rive Gauche or Pierre Cardin rather than actually buying. Incomparable Chanel is on Rue Cambon.

For discount high fashion, look out for dépôts-ventes: Anna Lowe on Avenue Matignon is the best-known name; or try Chercheminippes for family fashion. As with any fashion capital worth its salt, high-class accessories to match the clothes are also available on Paris's shopping streets. Expensive designer jewellery stores jostle for prime spots around Place Vendôme (1er).

Antiques shops and art galleries proliferate in central Paris. Yet again you can find very posh ones around the 8e and the 1er arrondissements, although you won't secure any bargains. The Louvre des Antiquaires groups many fine antiques dealers together in a grand building just opposite the palatial museum.

French culinary traditions are still alive and well, despite European Union regulations that seem determined to standardise everything. All around the capital you'll find superb boulangeries for French breads, fromageries for cheese, charcuteries for fabulously prepared pork and meat products, and patisseries for the best cakes in the world.

Everybody knows that wine is what the French do best so look out for caves à vin (wine cellars) throughout the city. Fine wines from Bordeaux, Champagne and any other French region you care to name are available even in Paris at a fraction of the cost that you'll find them overseas.

Perfume is another great French fashion product, and you can find specialist boutiques across the city, as well as a wide selection in the department stores (see above).

Best of them all is fashionable Sephora on the Champs Elysées. A massive store it offers hundreds of top quality perfumes, fragrances and cosmetics at fabulous prices. Seats and magazines at the rear of the shop allow the menfolk to relax while the women browse the massive range available.

Opening Hours

Most Paris department stores are open from 09h00-18h30 Mon-Sat. Many smaller shops close between 12h00-14h30. Shops may close half-day or all day on Monday.

Tax Refund

In France a sales tax (VAT) of 16.38% is levied on most goods and services. Following a visit to France, non-EU tourists can apply for a tax refund on goods bought. Most countries offering a tax refund specify a minimum amount that must be spent in a particular shop to claim a refund. In France, the minimum purchase to qualify for a refund is EUR175.

To reclaim tax you need to request a VAT refund request form when you make a purchase, which states the amount of refund due. Customs officials must stamp these documents as you leave the country and the refund will be processed and sent to you.

Alternatively, you can purchase goods from shops participating in the Tax-free Shopping programme (look out for the Tax-free Shopping logo displayed in the window). Simply show your passport when you make a purchase and you will be given a Tax-free Shopping cheque showing the refund you are owed. As you leave the country, customs officials will stamp your cheques. You can claim your refund from the Tax-free Shopping desk or have it sent to you.

Paris has a well-established transport network that keeps the vast metropolis somehow ticking over efficiently. The underground Métro system is famously characteristic of the city and is the transport of choice for most tourists.

To and From the Airport

Charles de Gaulle (Roissy)

Paris has two main airports. Charles de Gaulle airport (also known as Roissy) lies to the north of the city. Strangely for an airport, but typically for Paris, Charles de Gaulle is a remarkably impressive complex in its own right. If you have time to spare it's well worth looking around the fabulous futuristic architecture before heading downtown on arrival or (more likely) before catching a flight elsewhere.

Buses

A direct bus shuttle, the Roissybus will take you to and from Opéra in the centre of Paris in around 60 minutes at a cost of EUR8.40, but journey times can be unreliable.

Trains

As you'd expect in an ultra-modern complex like Charles de Gaulle there's an excellent rail link to the heart of Paris via the RER rapid rail system that links the Paris suburbs with the centre. The Charles de Gaulle RER station is at Terminal One and Two, so if you arrive at Terminal One, take the free airport bus provided (leaving from outside door 22) for Terminal Two.

Taxis

Access to taxis is well signposted out of the arrivals halls. Expect to pay around EUR40 to EUR55 for the half hour ride to the city centre.

Orly Airport

Orly airport lies south of Paris and is a lot smaller than CDG.

Buses

There's a direct bus service from Orly to Denfert-Rochereau, which is supposed to take around 30 minutes, but the drop-off point isn't that helpful. Orlybus costs EUR6.

Trains

For a cheaper ride, take the very frequent automatic rail link (Orlyval) to the RER station Antony and buy a ticket to the centre.

Taxis

A taxi to the centre will probably set you back around EUR 25 to EUR30.

Public Transport

If you're likely to be using public transport a lot in Paris, it's worth purchasing a "Paris Visite" card, which entitles the holder to free transport on all Métro and RER trains and buses in zones 1 to 3 for a period of one, two, three or five days. The card costs:

1 day: EUR8.50 2 days: EUR14 3 days: EUR19 5 days: EUR76.65

Métro and RER

Paris has a really excellent underground system, the Métro, supplemented by the RER stations in the centre, for which you can use a Métro ticket. The Métro operates between 05h30 and 01h30, the RER between 05h00 and midnight. Trains are extremely frequent. Métro stops tend to be close together, meaning that every attraction is only a short walk from one station or another.

If you're not likely to get your money's worth from a "Paris Visite" card (see above), the most sensible way to buy tickets for a short stay is by investing in a carnet of ten tickets for EUR11.40. Each ticket entitles you to one journey on any public transport in the city. On the Métro network you can change lines as often as you like on a single journey without using a new ticket.

It can be difficult to decipher the stations on the Métro map. As well as finding your station, you'll also need to remember the stations at the end of the line you want to use, as in the corridors you're directed not just by the line number, but also by the final destinations.

Buses

The Paris bus service is a bit harder to fathom than the Métro system but, if you're prepared to work it out, travelling at street level in Paris is a lot more rewarding than the underground. The city's buses run from around 07h00. Many services stop at 20h30, but some go on to 00h30. From then until dawn there are night buses (Noctambus) which run from 01h00 to 05h30 and radiate out from central Place Du Ch?telet to the suburbs.

Get a free bus route map from a Métro station and buy your bus tickets there. Over a short stay the carnet of ten again offers good value for money - identical and interchangeable with those for the Métro. However, note that if you change bus on a single journey, you have to use a new ticket each time, unlike on a Métro journey, As you get on a bus, stamp your ticket in the machine next to the driver. To get the bus to stop where you want, press the arr?t demandé button.

Eurostar

A large number of visitors now arrive in Paris by the Eurostar train. This international train-link runs to London via the Channel Tunnel and to other destinations on the continent. Trains arrive at the Gare du Nord, located just to the north of the city centre. The station is also a hub for the Métro and RER networks, which connect to the city centre. Tel: 08705-186-186.

Driving

Driving in Paris centre can be a stressful experience. Parisian drivers are generally impatient and liberal users of both horn and hand gesture. However, if you adopt a thick skin (as most local drivers do) it is possible to drive with reasonable confidence. Be aware that vehicles entering from the right have right of way, but often the congestion is such that it is a case of filtering in where you can.

There is a pollution prevention measure restricting the use of cars in the city on days when the air-quality is particularly poor, with cars being restricted according to whether they have an odd or even numbered licence plate. On such days public transport is free. The restriction does not apply to many modern cars that have low emissions - hire cars are usually in this group and exempt from restrictions.